Flinders Ranges Trip Pt. 2: Lake Bonney, Port Germein, Bridle Track, Melrose, Alligator Gorge
Day 3
Another big day of driving ahead, we set out from Lake Bonney for Port Germain at 8am. The landscape changed dramatically as we traded the red sands along the Murray river for lush green south Australian coast line. Impressive fields of agriculture once again dominated the landscape..but this time over dramatic hills. Dilapidated sand stone ruins crumbling in bright yellow canola fields.
After stopping at Port Germein for lunch and a stroll along the beach, we headed for Bridle Track at the southern base of the Flinders ranges. Its a beautiful track through lush green rolling hills, with views out to the sea. The track wasn't anything too difficult or nerve racking, just a nice low-range cruise with some occasional rough patches, but some of the guys were towing caravans so that introduced some challenges on tight bends.
This took us to Melrose at the base of Mt Remarkable, where we decided to stay at the local showgrounds. It's a cute little historic town, the showgrounds were nothing special but backed onto the National Park and had a brand new shower block - a welcome surprise after a few days without.
I found a track at the back of the grounds and went for a stroll - it turned out to be a mountain bike track. I didn't realise at the time, but Mt Remarkable is popular MTB destination. Mulga parrots darted around the grass and the occasional roo or wallaby sighted.
Day 4
Heading out from Melrose we’d intended on doing a scenic route to Alligator gorge via a ridgeline track, but the warning signs of tight tracks at the entrance spooked the caravaners, so we had no choice but to take the tourist route. I did feel a bit salty about this at the time but later in the trip I checked out the tracks and they were all closed off, so it was the right call!
Due to fires in February, the landscape on the route into the gorge was charred. It was incredible to see all the blackened grass trees reshooting, thousands and thousands of them across the rolling hills. To think we paid $700 for one in our garden!
The walk through the gorge turned out to be absolutely stunning. A tight, rocky gorge with a creek flowing through it. Red stone walls shaped into undulating patterns by eons of erosion. Still water mirroring the overhead trees.
Now here's the fun part. I got my drone stuck in a tree. I proceeded to spend the next 30min throwing rocks and branches at it to knock it out. Finally success.. but it fell in the creek. Retrieved and the battery removed a split second layer. But the damage was very likely done.
Forcing composure, I continued on. The others had no idea of my struggles and had continued to walk, so were a long way ahead.
Around every bend the rock faces got bigger and we descended deeper. One section narrows until you have no choice but to navigate a long section walking through the creek on stepping stones, it was very cool.
Reaching the end I caught up to the others on the steps out, which turned out to be quite a challenging climb.
Pressing on to Warren Gorge via Quorn, we found out campsite under the towering orange rock face. it was a picturesque spot. Ancient gnarled river gums and sheoaks creating a unique open woodland unlike anything i'd seen in Victoria.
We had intended to stay at Argadells station, but unfortunately when Jacob called they said they weren't taking visitors, and not offering use of their 4x4 tracks to the public. I see now it's been sold to a college, but they claim the park is still open to visitors, so maybe we'll be able to check it out next time.
We did get to the do the Buckaringa scenic drive, which gave us our first taste of the Flinders ranges proper. The enormous expansive spaces, and impressive ridgelines under clear blue skies..it was enough to get me feeling feelings!
